The Under Shirt

I have strong opinions on the undershirt. Shocker, I know.

You wear an undershirt for two reasons. Because you sweat and that helps keep everything in place and you’re not secure enough to show some skin. I wear one almost every time I wear a button-down. Personally there is nothing worse then sweat coming from under the shirt. The underarms, back, under the chest (big dudes have this problem). It’s gross and unsightly so I’m with you on the use of the undershirt.

Wearing one is not what gets me. I can’t stand seeing the white collar of an undershirt peering out from under a usually much darker button-down. I don’t think it looks good and is far from sophisticated. It looks everyday, average and extremely blue collar. I’m not dogging the blue collar worker here but they are not known for great style or fashion. It’s time to step up your game.

Take a cue from celebrities. When was the last time you saw David Beckham with an white t-shirt coming out from under of his Armani button-down? Yeah, never. He’s got a hot, hairless chest and he’s got confidence to spare. Do some manscaping on that rainforest you call a chest and get over it. Quality girls appreciate a little chest hair and some skin, trust me. You’ll instantly look a little cooler, a little more laid back and much more stylish.


If you can’t show some skin at work change jobs or wear a tie.

A button-down without a tie should be worn with the top two buttons undone. Most button-downs look weird and uncomfortable if you have just the top unbuttoned. If you button all of them with no tie you will look ridiculous. You want to look like this guy?


The undershirt should be low v-neck or scoop-neck so as to show as little as possible in the front. I wear American Apparel’s Summer T-Shirt. It has a crazy low v-neck that I can’t really wear in public but under a shirt it’s perfect. I get the comfort I need, the sweat protection I desire and I don’t look like a jackass with some stark white shirt distracting from my badass button-down!


Polo also sells one of the lowest v-neck t-shirts out there and I’ve started to see the low v-neck offered by other clothiers like Calvin Kline and Hugo Boss.

A standard white wife-beater usually has a low v-neck that works as well but the lack of coverage and the possibility of its mesh fabric contrasting with the smooth fabric of a pressed Oxford is not for me.

Moral of this lesson, get over your insecurities, show some skin and blast into the land of style with no white shirt showing.

Wack Trends – Vol. 1

Let’s discuss a trend that I don’t understand. The graphic T-shirt over a button down. What the hell is up with that?

I can’t imagine a situation that this looks OK. I guess if you’re trying to look like you got dressed in the dark or you might actually be retarded. If you are actually retarded (mentally challenged) then I applaud you for taking the time to read this post and apologize for the slur. If you feel you are able minded and think this look is tops, well my friend, you might very well be retarded. Go take a test. You might also be a Jonas Brother or on an episode of Hannah Montana. Either way, you're too old so please stop.

Take a good look.




Yeah, it’s not a good idea.

You get what you pay for - Don't break the bank

So not everything you purchase needs to cost you a lot. Some things you will wear all the time will get worn out no matter what you pay. Also, some items you might not wear much at all so spending a lot might not sound like a great idea. Here are some items you can get away with spending a little on and still look fly:

Polo shirts

Express sells a plain front polo without any of that lion crap stitched over the pocket. They are made of stretchy cotton that fits the body well. About $30 bucks. I usually pick up 3-6 of these in whatever colors they have each summer; 2 or 3 are black because I wear them most. They wear out in a year if you wash them a lot but worth the price.

Style note: Polo's should fit you. Sleeves should end mid-bicep not at the elbow and the length should be just below your belt. Finding a cut that isn't too boxy is a challenge for broad shouldered dudes like me so when I find one I stick with it. They stretch out, fade the color in the wash and eventually look like crap. Know when it's time to retire the shirt. Chances are if you've had it more then a year and a half, it's done.

Oh and put down your fucking collar!

Khakis

Personally I don't really wear them. I have a pair because it seems to be a prerequisite here in Dallas and I like to fit in, sometimes. When I moved to Manhattan after college I made it a point to get rid of all my Khaki pants and never wear them again. That said, this is one of those items that doesn't need to be Armani (though mine are, whatever). You can find a decent pair at Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers or even Gap for a decent price.



Style note: Get them tailored to fit you perfectly, keep them pressed and they will look like you dropped some coin. People will let the press on Khakis slide because they are usually viewed as causal pants. Don't let that happen. It looks sloppy and brings the class down.

No pleats, no cargo pockets, please!


Additional advise on saving money on your wardrobe and still look great:

Buy that special, unique item at a thrift store. This is not for everyone but those of you who have the patience for doing a little digging can find some gems at second hand shops. This piece of advice came from designers, Barker Black (a kick ass label). One of the lead designers favorite piece of clothing is a thrift store bought, vintage Brooks Brothers suit. He bought it a size or two too big, brought it to his good tailor and had it fit around him. He got old world quality and perfect fit at a fraction of the price.

This advice can be put to sale items. Say there is a great piece on sale but it's a size or two too big. If you have that trusted tailor you can make that piece work. Remember, you can always make something smaller and fit better if you have something to work with.

Ultimately, whatever you chose to buy look for quality, cut and how it fits on you. Don't make excuses because it was "cheap".

You get what you pay for - Spend some money

It’s a simple concept to grasp and for better or worse, it’s true. If you want to look good you have to spend some money. The key is spending the money on the right things and in the right places. The bright side is not everything is expensive and it’s possible to look great without dropping a lot of loot. Here’s what you need to know part 1:

My personal rule of thumb: Spend the money now, take care of the piece and you wont have to replace it in a year. A $400 pair of shoes that lasts you 3-5 years is better then spending $150 every year. This holds true for a number of things. The key is doing your research and getting something that’s very well made with a heritage of creating great fitting items.

Items you should pay a lot for, no leniency:

Shoes

They are expensive, period. Cheap dress shoes look cheap, wear out fast and leave you with something embarrassing. A solid pair of black cap toe shoes (which every man should wear often) is going to cost you $200 - $500. That’s the way it is. Get over it. And no, Kenneth Cole is not a respected brand anymore. In ’00 they were the bee’s knees but they are all but done right now.

*Cole Haan
Good shoe brands: Cole Haan, Prada, Hugo Boss, Brooks Brothers

Style note: Stop wearing square toe shoes! They are clunky, far from sleek and you look like a jackass.




Jeans

I have a whole post dedicated to jeans on the way so we won’t get into too much right now. For me, there is no substitute to a really well made pair of jeans. It’s truly one thing I can’t live without and won’t bat an eye spending $300 to have. Hit up Barney’s or Neiman Marcus for the best selection. I’m sure your city has a local shop that sells the best in denim, like New York’s Atrium or Jean Connection in Dallas. Go in, grab about 10 pairs and try them on all on. If they cost less the $150 question why.

Remember, you will have to get them hemmed or tailored so they don’t have to fit perfect in the store.

There shouldn’t be any cuts, holes, bedazzlements or writing. Your jeans can have holes but only if you wore them in yourselves. It’s a lot cooler if you've made holes out of use and you didn’t buy it that way.

Most everyone needs a light and dark wash in their collection.


Good denim brands: Nudie, Earnest Sewn, Diesel, Levis (the only brand that’s cheap you are allowed to wear)

Wack brands: Mavi, Ed Hardy, American Eagle/Gap/Banana Republic/Abercrombie, Seven’s (yes Seven’s. They don’t last long and are sold at Target. Time to grow up)

Next up...items that don't break the bank.

Happy 4th of July

It’s that special time of year where we get the day off of work. We light the fireworks, sit by the pool and grill up the meat. It’s also the one day of the year you’re allowed to dress like a Tommy Hilfiger ad and get away with it. So bust out those Madras shorts and v-neck sweaters, pop that collar and embrace your inner-douche. You deserve it.

Everyday Standards – Below the Waist Accessories

Everyday Standards – Below the Waist Accessories

Here’s my quick cheat sheet of things you need to know when it comes to proper daily fashion. What to wear when and why it’s important to follow those rules. And, unless you’re David Beckman, which you aint, you should follow the rules.

Shoes and Belts:

Match your belt with your shoes. Black shoes, black belt. Brown shoes, brown belt. There is no exception and no leniency in mixing the two. I will hit you in the face if I see brown shoes with a black belt.

Wearing Navy – Wear brown shoes and belt. Never black with Navy.

Wearing Black – Wear black.

Wearing Khaki – You should wear brown but if you must, you can rock black as long as your top half has darker colors. If you wear black shoes try for a darker Khaki. Match your belt regardless.

Sneakers:

In this day in time it’s OK to wear sneakers in and out of the office. The key is to select kicks that show your personality and work well with your outfit. They can dress down a serious outfit or make a simple ensemble pop.

You can pull off a cool pair of sneakers with anything as long as the overall color matches the rest of the outfit.

Keep them clean! That pair of New Balance you’ve had to 4 years doesn’t look good. Stop wearing them. Buy some sneaker care products like leather spray. Treat your shoes before you wear them and clean them every few walks around the block.

Spend some time selecting shoes. Look online, hit up some sneaker stores. Don’t be afraid of the classic Adidas or Puma. They still look dope and people might think you’re cooler then you are.

Socks:

MATCH YOUR SOCKS!

Wear black with black and navy with navy. You can throw in some crazy patterns from time to time, that’s totally cool. But again, make sure that the primary colors of the sock match the outfit.

It’s never, ever, ever OK to wear white athletic socks under pants or shorts for that matter. In fact, you you shouldn't own socks that go above the ankle bone. I’m going to say it now, if you wear white tube socks to work, you’re an idiot and I have little respect for you.

In a business setting, you should never see any skin when you cross your legs. If you do, get taller socks or longer pants.

The exception to the skin rule is if you are wearing shoes with no socks. This is reserved for summer months only, which generally carries a more casual atmosphere.

Socks with sandals? Please leave this blog because you suck and you're wasting my bandwidth.

Sandals:

Flip flops are the only OK thing to wear in the summer months only. They should be skinny and simple in color. Reefs, Rainbows or Havaianas

You can't wear mandals. Never. They are done. They're not even "gay" as an insult. Think of mandals like Zima. They were cool for a summer in high school before you knew better. Now it's a joke to everyone and you should know better.

Get yo shit tailored

Today’s lesson might be as important as the first. Unless you are having clothes created specifically for you, they won’t be made for you. That sounds simple and kind of stupid but it’s very much the case.

There is nothing better than getting a skilled tailor to take a swing at your clothes to make sure what you roll out in actually fits.

When you purchase a shirt, a pair of pants, a suit or whatever, it was designed around a set of parameters and rules that are not specific to you. The garment might fit perfectly in places but chances are it’s off on quite a few others.

A few rules of tailoring:

The crazy Asian tailor you undoubtedly have on your street is perfect for quick jobs like hemming a pair of jeans or taking in the waist. They are fast, cheap and reliable however you might what to look to someone else for your big jobs such as fitting a shirt, a sport coat or suit.

You will pay more for the expertise and more then likely wait longer but it will be completely worth it. Most cities have a “best of” section each year. Find the listing for best tailor and go see that guy. If it looks like a chop shop it might be, move on. If it’s a chain, move on. If it’s a really old guy that seems pissed off and doesn’t speak very good English, well that’s your guy. He’s been doing that job his whole life and he’s really good at it.

While shopping keep in mind, a tailor can’t add fabric to the garment. If the shirt fits in the shoulders and chest but the sleeves are a little too short, move up a size. The sleeves being long enough is a key part because you can and should have the shirt taken in at the shoulders and the back.

Most men buy a shirt to fit a certain way and ignore the places where it doesn’t. This generally looks sloppy and will bring down the overall look.

You might ask “I just spent $80 on this shirt why do you have to spend even more to get it right? It’s just the way it is! Until you are ready for the next step, which is custom clothes, then sack up and spend the money. It will last you longer, look better and pay for it’s self in time. A shirt that’s too big only gets bigger and things that are too small, well, no one likes to see that.

Here’s a link to a great step-by-step breakdown, with pictures! It’s a solid walk through of how a shirt should fit.

Fit that shirt